Co-Founded by Bret Love & Mary Gabbett, Green Global Travel is an ecotourism, nature / wildlife conservation & cultural preservation magazine. More about us.
Traveling to Cartagena Colombia was one of the coolest freelance assignments I’ve ever gotten.
The airline whose magazine I wrote for flew me to the historic colonial city (also known as Cartagena de Indias) on their inaugural flight. They arranged for my buddy DeMarco and I (this was the year before I met Mary) to stay at the La Passion Hotel– a gorgeous 18th century Spanish mansion that had recently been renovated– and tour Cartagena with a private guide and driver. And, for the first time in my career, they also hired me to shoot photos for the cover of the magazine (which, coincidentally, is the shot above).
The funny thing is that the lovely model you see, Carolina Sanchez, was not a model at all. The Colombia Tourism Board had arranged for a model and for a local fashion designer to provide swimsuits for the photo shoots, which would take place over our 3 days in Cartagena. But the model they selected ultimately balked, saying she couldn’t appear in a swimsuit because it was prohibited by her contract as a Top 10 finalist in the Miss Colombia pageant! So Carolina– a friend of the designer who managed a local hotel owned by her parents– gamely agreed to step in, and we had a blast exploring the city.
Founded in 1533, the Spanish colonial city was designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1984. We started our exploration at San Felipe Barajas Castle, the fortress whose construction began during the the 17th century and ultimately took over 200 years to complete. Today, the fortress and the 6.8 miles of fortified walls that surround the historic city remain Cartagena’s most prominent identifying features.
It was incredible to explore the fort (known locally as Castillo San Felipe de Barajas and named after King Philip IV), which had myriad tunnels filled with nooks and crannies where soldiers could lie in wait to kill the British and French soldiers and privateers who frequently tried to plunder the wealthy city. The massive stone structure looked even more magical at night, when the lights gave it an eerie glow.
Because the Spanish crown had gone to such great lengths to protect the Caribbean coastal city, which was crucial in the economic and political development of the region, many of the area’s historic buildings remain in amazing shape today. This impressive church was built to honor Saint Peter Claver, a Spanish Jesuit priest whose life’s work made him the patron saint of slaves, and the Republic of Colombia.
My assignment garnered us extraordinary access to some of Cartagena’s most historic sites: A mere word from our guide, Jose, convinced the employees of the Heredia Theatre to let us in, even though they were closed to the public.
Named after Pedro de Heredia, the founder of the city, and inspired by the Teatro Tacón of Havana, the theater originally opened its doors in 1911. After being abandoned for many years, it was rebuilt in the 1990s and is the cultural center of Cartagena today, hosting performances by a variety of local arts organizations.
Fortunately, you didn’t need such exclusive access to see the beauty of Cartagena’s colonial architecture. In the old walled city it was everywhere, from the colorful homes that lined the narrow streets to the Cathedral of Cartagena. Officially know as the Metropolitan Cathedral Basilica of Saint Catherine of Alexandria, the church was built in 1612 and modeled after the basilicas of Andalusia, then remodeled in the early 20th century.
As we walked the streets near the Palace of the Inquisition, we stumbled across a Mapalé dance ensemble giving a public performance in the park. Set to the uptempo rhythms of Cumbia music, this Colombian dance style was originally brought over from Africa by slaves, with movements inspired by a fish out of water. Characterized by male and female dancers moving frenetically towards one another, it resembles a fiery, passionate erotic courtship.
The Afro-Caribbean cultural influence was stronger in Cartagena than just about any other Latin American city we’ve ever been to. Not just in the music and dance, but also in the dress of both the Mapalé dancers and these lovely ladies, who were selling their fresh fruits in the same park.
Having immersed ourselves in the Old Town, it was intriguing to head out to the Convento de la Popa, which is located at the top of a 150-meter hill on the outskirts of the city. Founded by Augustine fathers in 1607, the fortified convent now attracts flocks of the faithful, who parade up the steep hill on religious holidays. It also afforded exceptional views of Bocagrande, the more modern section of Cartagena where most tourists stay.
On our last day in Cartagena, we made our way about an hour by boat to the Rosario Islands (Islas del Rosario) to see a completely different side of Colombia. A relatively undiscovered gem, these 27 islands are one of the nation’s 46 Natural National Parks, created to protect the coral reef that lies off the country’s Caribbean coast. We spent a wonderful day exploring 3 of the islands, relaxing in hammocks by the beach, doing a few photo shoots and snorkeling in the crystal-clear aquamarine waters.
As we were doing a photo shoot in the shallow waters off one of the islands, this man and his son pulled up and offered us tastes of lobster and HUGE prawns they’d caught that morning. We’d just eaten lunch and politely declined, as were stuffed to the gills. But he insisted we at least sample his wares, onto which he squeezed fresh lime juice. It was the best lobster I ever had. One day I’d love to return and spent more time in the Rosarios.
Finally we made out way back to the city for one final photo shoot at La Passion Hotel’s rooftop pool. It was a bittersweet moment: I knew the photos we were getting were some of the finest of my career to that point, but DeMarco and I were both bummed that our short time in Cartagena Colombia was coming to a close. Five years later, this remains one of my favorite cities in the world, and one of the few I’d definitely return to if I had a chance. Though the U.S. government issues travel advisories to Colombia, Cartagena proved perfectly safe, and fond memories of the city’s rich culture and history still remain strong in my mind today. –Text & photos by Bret Love
If your enjoyed our Cartagena Colombia Photo Gallery, you might also like:
COLOMBIA: Cartagena, the Real Emerald City
GLOBAL CULTURE: The Art of The Caribbean & Latin America
GLOBAL CULTURE: Traditional Music & Dance of the Caribbean
Now we’re even MORE excited for our arrival in Cartagena later this year after we finish exploring Panama and figure out the best and least expensive way to ship our truck from Panama to Cartagena around the roadless Darien Gap…
Karen @ Trans-Americas Journey recently posted..Best of the Trans-Americas Journey 2012 – Best Food & Beverages
Cool, I’m sure you guys will have a blast! I highly recommend visiting the Rosario islands while you’re there for some R&R.
I like Colonial Architecture. The photo #5 from the top of the post looks so much like some streets in Lima Peru; also a city with a long Spanish tradition. I only know Bogota my next visit to Colombia should be Cartagena about which I hear a lot!
David Moran recently posted..Nature Travel: Is it better to go solo or as a Group?
Yeah, I can definitely see some similarities between Cartagena and Lima, but I think Cartagena has better preserved the Colonial history of the Old Town. In Lima, the ancient and modern are more mixed together. Still a lovely city though!
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Wow, Cartagena looks beautiful! I love historical buildings too. Hope I can include Colombia in my itinerary this year (cross fingers that my trip in that side of the world pushes thru!)
Aleah | SolitaryWanderer.com recently posted..Snapshot Sunday—A Day at the Saigon Zoo and Botanical Gardens
Good luck, Aleah! South America definitely has some amazing adventures to offer. Hope you get there!
i want some of that lobster!! gorgeous photos.
wandering educators recently posted..Top things to do in Maui
Thanks, Jessie. Our lunch that day was good, but the lobster was better. In retrospect, I wish we’d had more…
Ah, south america. A whole continent just sitting there, beckoning me to explore it. Here’s hoping that’ll be sooner rather than later – these photos are lovely!
Laurence recently posted..What to see in Ayutthaya
You’ve never been? Aw man, with your mad photo skills you REALLY need to go.
Colombia really intrigues me and I hope I can plan a trip there soon. Cartagena looks gorgeous! (Do I dare admit that all I can think of when someone mentions this city is the movie Romancing the Stone?)
Ali recently posted..6 Countries for New Travelers
Joan Wilder! Yeah, me too. LOL
Beautiful photos, Bret! I think you may have just inspired me to visit

Micki recently posted..In Mexico The Past is Never Dead: The Yellow City of Izamal
Awesome! That’s my job, right?
Gorgeous shots capturing so many different aspects of Cartagena. Would love to visit this city. A little R&R in the Rosario Islands would be nice, too.

Cathy Sweeney recently posted..Surfing in Munich
Yeah, I think the Rosario Islands are one of the true undiscovered gems I’ve visited on my travels. There was virtually nobody there, so it’d be the perfect unspoiled spot for some R&R!
The kids and I loved Cartagena, so colourful and lively and full of surprises. I especially liked the little park in the middle of the old town – a lovely, shady refuge from the heat, and vendors stopped by with ice creams, water, wallets, toys, fruit, everything for sale, but without being pushy about it. Fab city!
Sophie recently posted..Zip lining in Costa Rica
Yeah, that park (whose name escapes me) was where we took the photos of the dancers and the fruit vendors. It was gorgeous! In retrospect, I wish I’d taken better photos at the Inquisition Museum. Such a crazy place…
Great shots…I know surprisingly little about Cartagena. Would love to get there and Medellin…
D.J. – The World of Deej recently posted..Gone Shrimpin’ Aboard The Lady Jane
Yeah, there’s a rainforest area I’ve heard about somewhere outside Barranquilla that’s supposed to be pretty amazing (I’ve heard it compared to the Amazon). I’d love to get there someday.
Colombia would be amazing to visit. I wonder if much has changed in 5 years…
Cole @ FourJandals.com recently posted..6 Basic Money Saving Tips for Travel Adventures in 2013
I don’t know, but the whole “Old Town” section of the city seemed pretty timeless. Because of the UNESCO World Heritage Site status, my hunch is that the walled city will be preserved as is, while Bocagrande will continue to grow, expand and modernize.
I love how colorful the dresses those women wear are. What a charming place!
Laura @Travelocafe recently posted..Ikebukuro Autumn Festival, Tokyo: A Photo Essay
It was extremely charming and friendly: One of the most welcoming Latin American cities I’ve ever visited. We would love to go back and explore more of Colombia in the future.
Enjoyed reading about Cartagena. However, for not being a model she is gorgeous! City is a good mix of old and new. Would love to visit Colombia one day.
Jeremy Branham recently posted..2013 New Years resolutions, travel plans, and a look ahead
Yeah, Carolina was great– beautiful, but without any of the attitude or ego you sometimes get with professional models. She didn’t even have to pose, because she was such a natural.
Since visiting Cartagena’s namesake in Murcia, Spain, I’ve been dying to go. My boyfriend is Spanish and knows TONS on Colonial Spanish history (apparently what theys tudy at the military academies, in between flying planes). Cool photos, B!
Cat of Sunshine and Siestas recently posted..Tapa Thursdays: The Mercado de San Miguel, Madrid
Ooh, now you’ve got me curious about the Spanish Cartagena. What’s that city like? We really love Colonial history, although we tend to empathize more with the indigenous people/culture than the European invaders.
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I know Cartagena from two places. A game from the mid 80s called Pirates, where I picked up most of what passes for Caribbean geography in my head and Romancing the Stone, where it is fairly dangerous. I am actually interested to see what it is like today. Columbia, despite the warnings, is fairly high on our list of places to go explore, even if it probably won’t be this year.
Andrew recently posted..Mundane but beautiful
You’re the second person who’s mentioned Romancing The Stone, which was also my first introduction to Cartagena. The city definitely wasn’t what I expected, but I really fell in love with the place. So much history in the walled city, and so much beauty and culture. I would definitely go back!