destinations

Edinburghs Castle DESTINATIONS: Meeting Sean Connery (& My Grandfathers Ghost) In Scotland

Edinburgh Castle

 

During my college years, when I was majoring in Music Business with a Recording Engineering concentration, I asked my beloved grandfather, a gifted raconteur, if I could record him telling stories about our family’s history. He was approaching his mid-70s by then, and perhaps deep down I sensed we didn’t have a ton of time left. Regardless, the stories he told that day had a huge impact on my life.

 

Through him I learned that our family’s original name was MacAlpin and that our line could be traced back to Scottish King Kenneth mac Alpin, the first monarch to unite the kingdoms of Dalriada in the west with the Picts. Sometime in the late 1700s or early 1800s, one of Kenneth’s descendants decided to move to America in search of a better life. Hoping to avoid the persecution of Scottish immigrants that was prevalent at the time, he changed his last name to Love, for he was the youngest son and his mother often called him “my love.”

 

Fast forward seven years: My grandfather had passed away after losing his battle with lung cancer, I had fallen in love with Scottish history and culture (fueled in part by films such as Braveheart and Rob Roy), and my career as an entertainment writer had taken off. So I was ecstatic when Twentieth Century Fox invited me to attend a press junket in Scotland for the film Entrapment. I would be flown to Edinburgh, stay in the historic Caledonian Hotel, attend the film’s world premiere, and interview stars Sean Connery and Catherine Zeta-Jones. As a longtime Connery fan, I couldn’t have been more excited.

 

Scottish Church 696x1024 DESTINATIONS: Meeting Sean Connery (& My Grandfathers Ghost) In Scotland

St. John's Church in Edinburgh

So excited, in fact, that I didn’t sleep a wink on the red-eye from Atlanta to Scotland, and therefore arrived in Edinburgh in the middle of a beautiful morning restless yet ready to roam. I had only one day free, and I intended to make the most of it. After checking in at the Caledonian (which was built in 1903 and sits in the heart of the city, providing stunning views of Edinburgh Castle and Princes Street Gardens) and grabbing a quick shower, I set out to walk the city’s famed Royal Mile.

 

I started off at the Castle, which has been in use for over 1,000 years and was an official Royal residence for centuries. Standing high above Edinburgh’s Old Town area, the formidable fortress includes a museum in the Palace, bronze statues of famous Scotsmen such as William Wallace and Robert the Bruce in the Gatehouse, the Witches’ Memorial monument (where more than 300 women were burned at the stake), Mills Mount Battery (where a cannon is fired at 1:30PM 6 days a week), and Half Moon Battery (which protected the castle’s vulnerable eastern side). Exploring the castle for a few hours provided an immersive overview of Scotland’s proud, bloody history.

 

From there, I gradually made my way along the Royal Mile, which extends from the top of Castle Rock down the city’s main thoroughfare to the ruins at Holyrood Abbey. Historic sites along the way are many, including the Tron Kirk (a church built in the 17th century), the Canongate Kirk (the church founded in 1688, where the Queen’s granddaughter was married last year), the Heart of Midlothian, the General Assembly Hall of the Church of Scotland, and the Palace of Holyroodhouse (once home to Mary, Queen of Scots and still used by the Royal family today). Along the way, I stopped in to buy an antique chess set, have a bite of traditional fish ‘n’ chips, and listen to a bagpiper busking for spare change.

 

Scottish Ruins 1024x675 DESTINATIONS: Meeting Sean Connery (& My Grandfathers Ghost) In Scotland

The Ruins of Holyrood Abbey, Edinburgh

 

By the time I got back to my hotel (walking through Princes Street Gardens to visit the 200-foot tower of the Scott Monument, created in 1846 to honor author Sir Walter Scott), the sidewalk was crawling with paparazzi. Apparently word had gotten out that Sean Connery was staying at the Caledonian as well, and at the time the outspoken actor was at the center of the controversy surrounding Scottish independence. The energy was palpable, so I was buzzing by the time I got on the bus for the movie screening, despite not having slept in over 24 hours.

 

The screening of Entrapment was held in some grand historic theater whose name escapes me. What I do remember was the feeling of walking into this massive venue (which must have held at least 2,000 people) to find that the 25 journalists were the only people there. Usually our press screenings were packed with lucky members of the movie-going public, whose energy the studios hoped would lead to more favorable critical response, but this time the place was virtually empty. Then, shortly after the credits rolled, I heard voices a few rows behind me: When I looked back, there sat Sean Connery, Catherine Zeta-Jones, Michael Douglas and director Jon Amiel, sneaking into seats in the back row of the auditorium. The film was mediocre (expect for Zeta-Jones’ memorable scene in which she moved through lasers in the sexiest way imaginable), but I didn’t care: I was in Scotland, and I was having a blast.

spire DESTINATIONS: Meeting Sean Connery (& My Grandfathers Ghost) In Scotland

Sir Walter Scott Monument

After the movie, we had dinner in a private room on the castle grounds. It was there that I had the traditional dish known as haggis for the first time (and loved it!), and also where I had my first taste of 30-year-old Scotch (make mine a double!). As we ate, a storyteller regaled us with dark tales from the annals of Scottish history, and I began to understand how brutal and bloody my ancestors had been. Afterwards, I went on a late-night walk with Auld Reekie’s Ghost Tours, exploring Edinburgh’s famed underground vaults and hearing macabre tales of Mary Kings Close, Mercat Cross, grave-robbers, cannibals and more. It was awesome, like an episode of Game of Thrones brought to life through storytelling.

 

The next day started early, with more haggis for breakfast (as well as blood sausage, another culinary first for me). I was disappointed to learn that we’d be interviewing Connery and Zeta-Jones together, and even more disappointed to see that Zeta-Jones was not quite as attractive up close as she was onscreen. But Connery was everything you could hope for in an interview– proud, outspoken and open to discussing everything from his legacy as James Bond to why he was willing to fight for Scottish independence.

 

Afterwards, I had a few hours to kill before catching my flight to London for the world premiere of Notting Hill. I decided to take a quick cab ride back up to the entrance to Edinburgh Castle in hopes of getting some good photos for my scrapbook. As I stood in the parking lot trying to get a good shot, a tour bus pulled up and a group of tourists swarmed onto the sidewalk. Leading them was a tall, sturdy, bearded man in traditional tartan kilt. My jaw dropped as I recognized him: He was the spitting image of my late grandfather! I was so emotionally overwhelmed I didn’t know what to say, so instead I simply asked him if he’d mind posing for a photo in front of the castle. He graciously obliged.

 

Picture 2 DESTINATIONS: Meeting Sean Connery (& My Grandfathers Ghost) In Scotland

(Left) Scottish Tour Guide; (Right) My Grandfather, James R. Love

 

When I got home and showed my grandmother the photo, she immediately burst into tears, sobbing and smiling at the realization that her beloved husband had a doppleganger who was alive and well and living in Scotland. My time in the land of my forefathers was brief, but brilliant, and I long for the day when I can explore my ancestors’ homeland in greater depth.  –Bret Love

 

 

 

 

Elk Herd Outside Yellowstone National Park1 YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Elk Herd Outside Yellowstone National Park

 

We were getting worried as we flew into Bozeman, Montana the day before our Winter Wonders Tour of Yellowstone National Park with Off The Beaten Path. My daughter Alex and I had come with visions of snow-covered landscapes, but when we arrived the ground was bare and our shuttle driver complained about unseasonably warm temps. Fortunately, the morning we set off for the park it began to snow like the dickens, and we didn’t even reach Yellowstone before spotting our first wildlife, an expansive Elk herd traversing private farmland in the foothills of the Rocky Mountains.

 

Yellowstone National Park Entry Arch YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Yellowstone National Park North Entrance Arch

 

By the time we made our way along the Yellowstone River to the park’s North Entrance, the snow was really starting to come down and, as temperatures dropped, the accumulation started to stick. Here, Alex explores the famed stone arch that welcomes visitors to America’s first national park, which was created by an act of Congress in 1872 “For The Benefit And Enjoyment Of The People.”

 

Yellowstone National Park Entrance YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Yellowstone National Park Sign

 

Despite the falling snow and bitingly cold winds, we couldn’t resist the typical tourist photo op at the Yellowstone National Park sign, especially when we realized there was another herd of Elk about 50 yards in the background. Elk, who normally stay in the higher ranges during warm summer months, prefer lower elevations in the winter, as it is much easier to get to the grasses upon which they graze when they’re not having to dig through several feet of snow.

 

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Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel

 

Our first stop in the park was the historic Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel, one of the oldest hotels in the park, which provided a perfect launching point from which to explore the otherworldly terraces of Mammoth Hot Springs and the abundant wildlife of the Lamar Valley. By the time we got there to dump our bags in our rooms, any worries about a lack of snow had been replaced with concern about whether we’d brought enough warm clothes for what, to our Atlanta-born eyes, seemed like a blizzard in the making.

 

Ski Bear Mammoth Hot Springs Resort Ski Shop Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Ski Bear, Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel Ski Shop

 

The good thing about copious amounts of snow is that it turns Yellowstone National Park into a glistening Winter Wonderland. The bad thing is that the rapid fluctuations in temperatures made for very slippery surfaces, so our Off The Beaten Path guides sent us scurrying to the Mammoth Hot Springs Hotel Ski Shop to buy YakTrax. These ingenious (and surprisingly inexpensive) marvels slip over the soles of your shoes, with tiny metal springs that provide incredible traction on icy surfaces. While we were trying them on I spotted this sporty ski bear, who made Alex and I giggle.

 

Baby Lodge Pole Pine Tree Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Baby Lodge Pole Pine Tree, Yellowstone National Park

 

Neither Alex or I had ever seen the sheer volume of snow on the ground that we found as we explored Mammoth Hot Springs. Although the boardwalk had just a few inches that had been tamped down by previous visitors, the trail was lined with snow-capped Lodge Pole Pine Trees that made the area look like a picture-perfect Christmas card. Little did we know that landscape was about to change in extremely otherworldly fashion.

 

Shrouded In Fog In Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Shrouded In Fog In Mammoth Hot Springs

 

When we got to the overlook of the Main Terrace of the hot springs, this was the first sight that greeted our eyes. The relentless flurry of snowflakes, the steam from the hot springs meeting the cold air, and the acrid odor of sulphur from the area’s constant geothermal activity made for an overwhelming first impression, providing a strikingly alien contrast to the peaceful serenity of the upper trail.

 

Guide Kurt Westenbarger of Off The Beaten Path in Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Guide Kurt Westenbarger in Yellowstone National Park

 

Our guides for the Off The Beaten Path trip were Kurt Westenbarger and his lovely wife, Eve (a soil scientist by trade). Kurt, who grew up nearby and has been guiding in Yellowstone for over 20 years (he even leads tours for National Geographic), has an encyclopedic knowledge of the area’s geology, history and wildlife. Here, he explains how the large complex of hot springs on travertine hills were created over thousands of years as hot water cooled and deposited calcium carbonate. Over two tons of the stuff flow into Mammoth every day, so the landscape literally changes from week to week.

 

Bizarre Geological Formations in Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Bizarre Geological Formations in Mammoth Hot Springs

 

As a result, the area is full of unusual geological formations that are constantly evolving. These bizarre shapes in the water reminded me of miniature stalagmites, and when zoomed in on with my 400 mm lens looked like a vast crystal forest. But everywhere you looked in the hot springs, there were dozens of odd sights vying for your attention.

 

Dryad Spring in Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Dryad Spring

 

This section, known as Dryad Spring, found the color of the rock changing as the water cascaded down the terrace. It went from white to cream, to beige, to ochre, to bright green and brown, due to the various forms of algae that thrive in the warm (around 170 degrees Fahrenheit) pools. But it wasn’t just the colors that made the springs so oddly fascinating: everything that fell into the water became coated in the limestone-fed calcium carbonate, taking on an alien look all its own.

 

Winter in Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Dead Trees On Mammoth's Main Terrace

 

As Kurt explained, the level of calcium carbonate (which is used in everything from toothpaste to antacids) in the water is so intense in some areas that it gets into the roots of the trees and kills them. But the process also effectively preserves the trees for eternity by preventing decay, which leads to stark landscapes that reminded me of the Namibian desert (you know, if the Namibian desert got a TON of snow).

 

Canary Spring in Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Canary Spring

 

One of my favorite photos from our first day in Yellowstone. Canary Spring lies on the edge of Mammoth’s main terrace, and seemed to be even more shrouded in fog than the myriad other springs and terraces we visited. Mammoth loses some appeal when its unique features (such as the colorful dry terraces) are completely covered in snow, but Canary seemed to gain even more character, reminding me of something out of a Stephen King novel.

 

Bison Near Mammoth Hot Springs Yellowstone National Park YELLOWSTONE NATIONAL PARK  Day 1 Photo Gallery

Bison Near Mammoth Hot Springs

 

After Alex decided she’d had enough of relentless snow, slippery ice and bitter cold for one day, we had our first heart-pounding animal encounter on our way back to the hotel. We rounded a corner just below the springs in our tour van to see this big bison grazing, using his forehead and horns to push the snow aside and get to the winter grasses that lay beneath. We loved the big, burly creatures, but don’t be fooled: Bison are easily Yellowstone National Park’s most dangerous wildlife, and are responsible for numerous human deaths (largely due to stupidity, such as trying to pet them) each year. We kept a respectful distance, and were delighted to get some killer close-ups as we wound down our first day in the park.  –Bret Love

 

 

 

 

alaskamoutaintop5 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

Denali National Park, Alaska

 

THE CALL OF THE WILD

A Taste Of Alaskan Adventure

 

Alaska: “The Last Great Frontier.” The mere mention of the state conjures up images of hardy sled dogs, grizzlies, moose and iron men with iron wills, hell-bent for leather on a gold rush that saw them breaking their backs in an attempt to tame this tough, unforgiving countryside. But where the men of Jack London’s legendary stories came here seeking the freedom only a land of limitless possibilities like Alaska could offer, I was merely seeking freedom from the daily grind, hoping for the life-affirming rush of adventure.

 

Alaska’s history centers around the struggles between progress and nature, and I was struck by the dichotomy mere minutes after leaving downtown Anchorage. At a busy intersection, a massive moose mother brazenly crossed the six-lane highway, leaving behind her gangly kid, who balked at the prospect of playing the moose version of Frogger in busy morning traffic. But within minutes, humanity’s development had given way to Nature’s glory. Postcard-worthy vistas greeted me on all sides on our 3-hour ride to the scenic seaside town of Seward, from majestic mountains to gleaming glaciers.

 

alaskalandscape2 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

 

The cloudy skies seemed to part just for us, and the emerging sun provided a nice contrast to the chilling ocean breeze whipping at our windbreakers as we departed on our Kenai Fjords cruise. Preening sea otters, colorful puffins, a family of seals sunning themselves on the rocks, a school of dolphins frolicking in the boat’s wake and a trio of whales breaching in the distance provided an exciting beginning to my Alaskan adventure, whetting my appetite for the next day’s 5-hour trek to Denali National Park.

 

alaskaotter1 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

 

Signs of civilization along the way were few and far between outside of the two quaint towns in which we made brief stops (one of which, Talkeetna, was the inspiration for TV’s Northern Exposure). To pass the time, our tour bus driver regaled us with colorful tales and groan-worthy quips that proved surprisingly informative. Did you know, for instance, that nearly seven in 10 Alaskans have a pilot’s license, while three in 10 own their own planes? Or that the state leases public land to corporations that covet its natural resources, then give a share to each resident? Or that Alaska allows settlers to homestead, laying claim to a piece of property and, as long as nobody disputes it and they prove they can live on and improve the land, it’s theirs?

 

The McKinley Chalet Resort was buzzing with activity upon our arrival, with hordes of tourists lined up for the afternoon shuttles to the park as I made my way to my room at the back of the sprawling complex, which afforded spectacular views of the rushing waters of the Nenana River and the tree-covered slopes of Mt. Healy. The next morning I left early to get an overview of the park, attend a demonstration of the dog sled teams that provide the rangers’ primary means of transportation during the frigid winter months and catch the Savage River Shuttle, which travels the 13-mile portion of the park’s 90-mile road (the only part open to public vehicles). Though brief, the drive brought wonderful sightings of a caribou grazing lazily among the tundra and two moose wandering through the scrub less than 100 yards from the road.

 

alaskamoose2 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

 

Up before the sun the next day at 5:30AM, I called the tour operators at Denali Air to check the weather report for Mt. McKinley (by which the government recognizes the mountain, which locals refer to by its native name, Denali– “The Great One”). Informed that visibility was improving, I made reservations for a 10AM flightseeing tour in a 6-seat Cessna that would take me more than 10,000 feet towards Denali’s majestic, snow-capped peak. The scenery en route was awe-inspiring, as lush greenery and braided rivers gave way to magnificent mountains dotted with the white specks of Dall sheep and glacial ice. As we emerged from the clouds into a brilliant blue clearing, the approaching sight of “The Great One” took my breath away. But it wasn’t all smooth sailing: The tiny planes known as “puddle jumpers” ensure that you feel every little bump in the air coming off the mountain, and my stomach was decidedly thankful when at last we set foot back on terra firma.

 

alaskabear3 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

 

Luckily, my next two days were spent in motorized transportation of a less turbulent sort, as I greeted the chilly morning’s gorgeous pink and blue sunrise and set off on a tour bus into Denali National Park. The guides were impossibly chipper, teasing passengers with the promise of hot cocoa and telling stories about Alaskan history and the National Park Service (for which Denali’s approach to conservation is considered a blueprint). At our first stop, the Teklanika River, we spotted a grizzly grazing along the riverbank, but there were also frequent sightings of caribou, hoary marmots and snowshoe hares along the way. As we progressed deeper into the park, the clouds dissolved into wispy trails of puffy cotton nothingness, revealing what we were told was a rare glimpse of Denali in all her splendor. On we went for hours, over the braided Toklat River, beside the multi-colored rock of Polychrome Pass, past the stream bed soapberries that seemed to be like magnets for the park’s grizzly population. At last we rounded a bend to see the mountain revealed in full view, and the result was absolutely awe-inspiring.

 

On my last day I decided to take the bus all the way in to Wonder Lake, which, at mile 85, is the closest you can get to the mountain by vehicle. Ominous clouds threatened to ruin our streak of good weather, but the rising sun held them at bay as we made the first of many grizzly sightings. The bus was all abuzz when a little girl shouted “Stop! Wolf!” so quietly we weren’t sure whether to believe her, but there he was emerging from the woods directly behind us, solemn and focused on stalking his prey in the underbrush. There are fewer than 100 of these magnificent creatures in Denali’s six million acres, but for seem reason the wildlife seemed to be putting on a show on our 6-hour drive into the park, with grizzlies, Dall sheep and caribou seemingly around every turn.

 

alaskalandscape4 DESTINATIONS: The Call of The Wild In Denali National Park, Alaska

 

Located a mere 30 miles from the base of Mt. McKinley, Wonder Lake was perfectly picturesque, its serene stillness offering a reflection of Denali’s jagged cliffs, which stand like jaws eager to consume those who come unprepared for its challenges (less than half of those who attempt to climb it ever reach its summit). I attempted to hike through the thick tundra to get closer to the mountain during the two-hour wait for the bus that would return me to the resort. But I quickly realized that the tall tales we’d heard about Alaska’s ginormous mosquitoes (which locals laughingly call “the unofficial state bird”) were entirely true and made a hasty retreat, instead taking time to reflect on a week’s worth of memories that will last a lifetime.

 

The late summer warmth was beginning to fade, autumn’s vivid colors creeping into the scenery as a chill snuck into the air. In three weeks Denali would see its first snowfall of the season, and tourist-oriented businesses would close up shop as locals prepared to tough out another harsh Alaskan winter. Though progress has changed small pockets of Alaska’s landscape, in Denali National Park Mother Nature’s cycles continue as they have for centuries, providing a shining example of environmentally conscious ecotourism in America.  –Text & Photos by Bret Love


 

DSC 01571 DESTINATIONS: Bathing With Belugas At The Georgia Aquarium

Beluga & Friends at Georgia Aquarium

 

“Baby Beluga in the deep blue sea/ Swim so wild and you swim so free/ Heaven above and the sea below/ And a little white whale on the go/ Baby Beluga, Baby Beluga/ Is the water warm?/ Is your mama home with you, so happy…”

 

The first time I heard “Baby Beluga,” it was being sung by my daughter’s kindergarten class. If my heart were ice, it would’ve melted like an igloo in Africa on the spot. But, for me, the song will forever be associated with the Georgia Aquarium (http://www.georgiaaquarium.org), and the first time I took her there when she was six: The minute we saw their massive Beluga Whale exhibit (one of just 6 in the world) we started singing the song together and giggling, delighted to see such majestic creatures up close.

 

A few months ago I heard that they’d launched a new Beluga & Friends Interactive Program, so I immediately contacted them to set up a visit. And so it was that, a few weeks before Christmas, Mary and I found ourselves strapping on wetsuits and taken on a behind-the-scenes tour of the world’s largest aquarium, with 8 million gallons of marine and fresh water tanks.

 

Beluga Whales DESTINATIONS: Bathing With Belugas At The Georgia Aquarium

Beluga Whales at Georgia Aquarium

 

We learned a lot about the parts of the facility that most visitors never see, including their conservation efforts on behalf of dolphins in Florida, whale sharks in Mexico, and penguins in South Africa. We got to see their veterinary services areas, as well as the massive hydraulic lifts they use to get larger animals in and out of the exhibits. We even got to check out the commissary, to see how they carefully inspect every single fish their animals are given, ensuring sushi-quality servings for everyone from the playful otters to the dolphins and sharks.

 

We were then led to a classroom, where we learned a bit more about the Beluga, which is also known as the sea canary due to its distinctive high-pitched squeaks, squeals and whistles. With an average length of 12-13 feet and a range that stretches throughout the Arctic from Alaska and Canada to Greenland and Russia, belugas are considered a “near-threatened” species by the International Union for Conservation of Nature, with a global population of around 100,000. However, the subpopulation of Alaska’s Cook Inlet is considered critically endangered and is protected under the U.S. Endangered Species Act.

 

By this point we were beyond eager to get into the water, so after going over a few basic instructions we were led onto a waist-high platform in the holding tank, where the water is kept around a brisk 55º. The Aquarium ensures a 4:1 guest-trainer ratio, giving you an opportunity feel like a trainer for the day. Recently, they discovered their adult female beluga was pregnant as a result of their captive breeding program, but we didn’t get a chance to meet here on the day we visited.

 

 

Once we got situated along the wall, the trainer blew her whistle to call over our first fine-flippered friend, Qinu. Qinu is a young male calf, and therefore had the light grey color of a dolphin rather than the pure white for which adult belugas were named (beluga is a derivation of the Russian word for “white”). We each introduced ourselves to Qinu with the traditional whale greeting, i.e. throwing a tasty fish into his eagerly opened mouth. If he had been a puppy, I’m fairly certain his tail would’ve been wagging like crazy. In return, he allowed us to rub his melon, the bulbous lump of fatty tissue in the center of his forehead.

 

After that we met the star of the show, Beethoven, a massive male with a serious playful streak. We learned the different commands trainers use to get the whales to perform tricks ranging from making blowhole fart noises to spitting water in the faces of his unsuspecting victi… er, guests. He also allowed us to feel his squishy smooth skin, stroking him extensively and carefully feeling the finger-like skeletal structure in his fluke. In addition to the aforementioned gifts of fresh fish as a reward, Beethoven seemed to love having his tongue patted for some strange reason, which proved an oddly endearing trait.

 

Before we knew it, our time with the belugas was over and we bid them farewell, throwing in several pool toys used to enrich their experience. But our disappointment was interrupted by more oohs and aahs as the trainers led us to the adjacent tank, where a crew of cute spotted harbor seals came slipping and sliding out to meet us like a cadre of Cirque du Soleil clowns. I’m sure the trainer conveyed tons of great facts about these cuddly creatures in the process, but I was too infatuated with an adorable gal named Rose (what can I say, they reminded me of the beloved Galapagos Sea Lions!) to absorb it.

 

DSC 0188 DESTINATIONS: Bathing With Belugas At The Georgia Aquarium

Harbor Seal at Georgia Aquarium's Beluga & Friends Experience

 

In the end, we learned that you don’t have to venture very far from home in order to have an amazing animal encounter. We learned a lot about beluga whales during our Beluga & Friends experience, and getting to know the sweetly playful personalities of Qinu and Beethoven made us want to fight even harder to protect them and other whales from the dangers they face. The two-hour program (which runs twice a day) may be a bit pricey at $225 a person, but it produced memories we will cherish for the rest of our lives.  ­­–by Bret Love; photos provided courtesy of Georgia Aquarium

Waterfall Palau Micronesia ECO NEWS: EthicalTraveler.org Announces Developing World’s 10 Best Ethical Destinations for 2012

Waterfall In Palau, Micronesia

 

Our friends over at EthicalTraveler.org have selected ten developing countries to make up its annual list of The Developing World’s 10 Best Ethical Destinations.

 

Over the last half century, as developments in commercial aircraft and information technology have been taken advantage of and used more widely, the world has become increasingly interconnected.  This fact has brought opportunities for global adventurers to travel like never before.  However, the typical traveler’s limited resources don’t allow him or her to travel to every destination in the world: We must choose, and for the sake of the planet we must choose responsibly.  To do so, we must understand and maximize our power as consumers, using our dollars and sense to financially support the most ethical destinations.

 

Mauritius 852x480 ECO NEWS: EthicalTraveler.org Announces Developing World’s 10 Best Ethical Destinations for 2012

Scenic View of Mauritius

 

But what qualities do the folks at Ethical Traveler look for when measuring the world’s most ethical travel destinations?  The primary factors they take into consideration include Environmental Protection, Social Welfare and Human Rights. After weighing the scores of hundreds of destinations around the world, the countries to be congratulated  this year (in alphabetical order) are:


  • ARGENTINA
  • THE BAHAMAS
  • CHILE
  • COSTA RICA
  • DOMINICA
  • LATVIA
  • MAURITIUS
  • PALAU
  • SERBIA
  • URUGUAY


The folks at Ethical Traveler have an incredibly in-depth ranking procedure that compares data from sources such as Freedom House, the Millennium Challenge Corporation, the World Bank, and many other environmental indicators such as the Socioeconomic Data & Applications Center and the Environmental Performance Index, just to name a few.  The data is also examined over time, to determine the growth of these destinations in these critical areas.

 

Chili Andes ECO NEWS: EthicalTraveler.org Announces Developing World’s 10 Best Ethical Destinations for 2012

The Andes Mountains of Chile

 

Many countries that did not make their 2012 list ranked very high on one or two of the aforementioned criteria, such as Environmental Protection or Social Welfare, but failed to meet the standards on the others, such as Human Rights.  The countries selected for the Best Ethical Destinations list really have to have the whole package: The highest rank went to The Bahamas, followed by Chile.

 

In Environmental Protection, Costa Rica had the highest marks– the only developing country in the world to score in the “100-85” category in the Environmental Protection Index (EPI).  Chile scored particularly high in environmental protection as well.  Namibia has been thought of by many environmentalists as one of the most environmentally progressive countries in Africa, but they have not been included on Ethical Traveler’s list because of their horrific fur seal slaughter rates.  Hopefully they will end the annual wildlife massacre soon, and be included on next year’s list.

 

Social Welfare included indicators such as child mortality rates (Serbia and Latvia scored particularly well), access to safe drinking water, malnutrition, vaccinations, as well as sustainable water and agricultural management.

 

bahamas sailboat ECO NEWS: EthicalTraveler.org Announces Developing World’s 10 Best Ethical Destinations for 2012

The Bahamas Ranked #1 Overall On This Year's List

 

Perhaps the most interesting criteria, though, was Human Rights.  The Bahamas, Chile, Costa Rica, Dominica, Palau and Uruguay received the highest possible scores in Political Rights and Civil Liberties. Rights for homosexuals also proved to be critical in consideration for the rankings. Argentina’s senate passed a law legalizing same-sex marriage (the only Latin American country to do so).  Nations such as Ghana, Belize and Guyana have incredibly impressive records in environmental standards and boast a lot of travel appeal, but their anti-gay statutes are stringently enforced and for that reason alone they were removed from consideration.

 

While all of the country on the EthicalTraveler.org list would be excellent destinations to visit, the indirect aim of their ranking system is to urge travelers to become more mindful of how powerful their travel choices can be, and what those choices say about their personal priorities.  We here at Green Global Travel hope that you’ll take these factors into consideration in your future travel plans, and perhaps you’ll prioritize visiting one of the great destinations on this list.  –Raffi Simel

Amazon Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

I’m not personally big on New Year’s resolutions. For one, because people tend to break them before their New Year’s Eve hangover has worn off, but more importantly because I believe we should create resolutions for ourselves each and every day. However, the New Year always brings with it new dreams and aspirations, and for 2012 our goal is to travel more frequently, more responsibly and more globally, exploring destinations that have been on our Must-See wish list for years. There are literally dozens of them, but here (in alphabetical order) are our Top 10 Adventure Travel dream destinations for 2012:

 

THE AMAZON

An adventure trek down the Amazon has been a dream of mine since I was a kid, watching movies like The Emerald Forest and fantasizing about exploring its remote jungles. I’ve had an opportunity to visit several countries in Latin America over the past few years, but the Amazon remains alluring for its vast diversity of flora and fauna as well as the richness of its indigenous cultures. I’m envisioning cultural travel with a small-ship cruise down the river, remote eco-lodges in the middle of the rainforest, ziplining through picturesque forest canopies and learning more about the cultural traditions of the local tribes (perhaps making dugout canoes and fishing for piranha). A sighting of the rare pink Amazonian fresh water dolphin would be amazing!

 

Belize Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

BELIZE

Belize has been on my travel radar ever since my first trip to Costa Rica back in the late ’90s, and has been near the very top of my dream destinations list ever since. I’ve fantasized about it so much, I could tell you my ideal itinerary without even doing any research: I’d stay at the Jaguar Reef Resort (the country’s Hotel of the Year for 2010); I’d visit Hopkins Village, the site of the only continuous Garifuna (African descendent) settlement in Central America; I’d learn about the many Mayan ruins in the area; I’d explore the Cockscomb Basin Wildlife Sanctuary & Jaguar Preserve; and I’d scuba dive the famed Blue Hole. In truth, Belize is second only to Kenya on this list.

 

Botswana Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

BOTSWANA

One of the more recent additions to this list, Botswana has two people to thank for its current ranking on our radar: its Tourism Board PR rep (who has sent numerous emails over the past year touting the nation’s ecotourism advances) and our fellow travel blogger Jim McIntosh (who has written about his experiences there on his Holes In My Soles blog many times). Botswana’s attractions are many, including the 4,000 ancient San Bushmen rock paintings of Tsodilo Hills, the opportunity to view wildlife along the Okavango Delta from a traditional canoe (called a mokoro), and especially the 120,000 elephants estimated to reside in Chobe National Park.

 

Churchill Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

CHURCHILL, MANITOBA

The great thing about running Green Global Travel this past year has been how much we’ve learned about the world we love to travel. For instance, we knew that global warming was impacting the Arctic, but we had no idea how deeply climate change was affecting the habitat of one of our favorite species, the Polar Bear. In case you haven’t noticed from our copious coverage of the WWF/Coca-Cola partnership on the Arctic Home Project, we LOVE polar bears, so a visit to Churchill (where you’re virtually guaranteed to see them at certain times of the year) has rocketed up near the top of our travel wish list. Companies like Natural Habitat Adventures have special vehicles that allow wildlife lovers to get remarkably close to one of nature’s fiercest predators, but there other attractions we can’t wait to experience, including watching for Beluga whales and dog sledding under the Northern Lights.

 

 Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

ICELAND

I’ve been a fan of Iceland’s music scene (especially Bjork, Sigur Ros and Emiliana Torrini) for decades, but until this past year I had no clue what a burgeoning ecotourism hotspot this Nordic island was. With major volcanic eruptions in 2010 and 2011, the country seems particularly eager to attract tourism dollars, so hopefully bargain-hunters will be able to find good deals on airfare, lodging and tours in the New Year. Iceland’s myriad eco-friendly activities include snorkeling the crystal clear waters of Þingvellir National Park (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), hiking and ice climbing on the Sólheimajökull Glacier, and soaking in the soothing geothermal waters of the Blue Lagoon Spa, located in a lava field in Grindavik on the Reykjanes Peninsula.

 

india Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

INDIA

There  is perhaps no country in the world of which I am more familiar with the traditional cultures than India. I have studied Indian music (including dabbling in playing sitar and tabla… badly), cuisine, art and literature fairly extensively, and interviewed Indian icons such as Ravi Shankar and Zakir Hussain. And yet I have never set foot on Indian soil (though Mary did, for a month during college). Hopefully, this year that will change. There are so many things I’d love to do – visiting the Taj Mahal, walking the beaches of Goa, looking for rare Bengal tigers in Ranthambore National Preserve, exploring the backwaters of Kerala, seeing the Buddhist temples of Khajuraho– that we’d probably need at least a month there to do it all!

 

Bali Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

INDONESIA

Until a few years ago, everything I knew about Indonesia came from watching South Pacific as a teen (and of course now I can’t get the song “Bali Hai” out of my head). We refuse to visit several Asian countries due to their egregious environmental offenses (see: China’s use of endangered species parts in traditional medicine, Japan’s slaughter of dolphins and whales), but some of the smaller countries of Southeast Asia have recently crept up on our radar. Bali, in particular, seems especially alluring thanks to its many ancient temples, volcanic mountains and gorgeous waters, which we’ve heard boast spectacular snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities.

 

Kenya Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

KENYA/TANZANIA

My infatuation with Kenya can be traced back to the early ’90s, when my best bud Tony went to Africa with the Peace Corps. For vacation, he took a safari in Kenya and Tanzania, sending home letters, photos and even video of his experiences there that simply blew my mind (if YouTube had been around back then, his shot of lions defending a dead hippo against multiple crocodiles would’ve been a smash). Of course, the Masai Mara National Reserve and Ngorongoro Crater  are dream destinations for any wildlife lover, but we’d also love a chance to immerse ourselves in traditional Masai culture, and perhaps hike around (though probably not to the top of) Mt. Kilimanjaro.

 

Morocco Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

MOROCCO

Another country about which I’ve written quite a lot, but never visited. My dreams of Morocco have been inspired by the Indiana Jones films, the music of Bachir Attar & the Master Musicians of Jajouka, the writing of Paul Bowles and, of course, the incredible food. I’m dying to take a camel trek along the desert dunes of Merzouga (whose lake attracts pink flamingoes in the Spring), immerse myself in the rich sights and sounds and smells of the bustling medina of Fes El Bali (a UNESCO World Heritage Site), and attend Essaouira’s Gnaoua World Music Festival, where music and mysticism come together in a jubilant celebration  every year.

 

uganda Our Top 10 Adventure Travel Destinations For 2012

 

UGANDA

Sneaking onto this list in the 11th hour (sorry Jordan, Turkey, Greece and Malaysia!) thanks to the viral video of a photographer being groomed by silverback gorillas we shared earlier this week, Uganda’s appeal can be summed up in one word: Primates. We’ve seen howlers, capuchins, spiders and Vervet monkeys in Costa Rica, St Kitts and the Riviera Maya, but the opportunity to see sights like the photo above in their dwindling central African forest habitat is just too alluring to pass up. Visiting ecotourism havens like the Bwindi Impenetrable Forest (home to half the world’s mountain gorilla population), Kibale Forest National Park (where you can track wild chimpanzees), and Queen Elizabeth National Park (which offers a more traditional African safari experience) are definitely on our must-do list!  –Bret Love

 

Where do YOU dream of traveling in 2012? Leave a comment below and let us know!

 

Callaway Gardens Fantasy In Lights DESTINATIONS: Top 5 Christmas Light Displays In Georgia

 

 

FANTASY IN LIGHTS 

Now in its 20th year, Callaway Gardens’ annual Christmas celebration has recently been recognized by National Geographic as one of the Top 10 Christmas Light Displays in the World! It’s easy to see why: With 8 million lights comprising 14 different themes (including “Snowflake Valley” and “Magical Christmas Garden”) and stretched across a 5-mile drive filled with holiday music, it’s easily the state’s most high-tech light display. Running from November 18 through December 30, Fantasy In Lights also includes narrated scenes of ‘Twas the Night Before Christmas and The Nativity; a Christmas Village offering handmade arts and crafts, food and opportunities to visit with Santa and Rudolph; and a “Jolly Trolley” tour for those who’d prefer not to drive their own cars through the display. Callaway Gardens also offers overnight packages that include a room at the Mountain Creek Inn, Fantasy In Lights admission, a commemorative ornament, breakfast for two, and admission to all of the Gardens’ attractions.

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Co-Founded by Bret Love & Mary Gabbett, Green Global Travel is a web based travel magazine dedicated to ecotourism, adventure travel, nature/wildlife conservation & the preservation of indigenous cultures.
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Destinations by Country:

• AFRICA

South Africa Safari pt 1
South Africa Safari pt 2
South Africa- Zulu Memories
Tanzania- Mt. Kilimanjaro

 
• ANTARCTICA
Top 5 Eco Attractions in Antarctic
 
• AUSTRALIA
Kapiti Island, New Zealand

 
• NORTH AMERICA
UNITED STATES
America’s Best Volcanoes
AL- Denali National Park
FL- Sanibel Island Eco Activities
FL- Sanibel Island
FL- Crystal River, Swimming with Manatees
GA- North Georgia Mountains
GA- Georgia Christmas Displays
GA- Belugas at the Georgia Aquarium
GA- Jekyll Island Eco Activities
HI- Hawaii’s Big Island
HI- Hawaiian Mythology
WV- Outdoor Adventures
WY- Yellowstone

MEXICO
Riviera Maya
 
• CARIBBEAN

    Aruba
    Bahamas
    Barbados
    Curacao
    Cabarete/Puerto Plata, Dominican Republic
    San Juan, Puerto Rico
    St. Kitts
    St. Martin/St. Maarten
     
    • CENTRAL AMERICA
    Costa Rica (multiple stories)
    Guatemala
    Nicaragua
    Panama
     
    • EUROPE
    Ireland
    Italy
    Malta
    Norway
    Scotland